September 26, 2016
Rowena Miller
Commander in Chic
Gucci | 2016
Marching to the beat of your own drummer has never been easier as military looks march down the cat walk yet again in London’s Fashion Week.
Why do we keep returning to this tried and tested look you may ask? Why not! It is chic and timeless. I love all of it from the buttons to the braids to the stand up collars and the whole tailored sharp lines and form fitting feeling like you are wearing serious clothes’ thing.
Yes, it is a form of playing at dressing up but who doesn’t love that? No part of the military is left out of this game - flying suits and bomber jackets from the air force, naval officer jackets replete with braid and gold buttons from the navy and coats in fabulous olive green from the army are all in the frame.
It may be the romance or the idea of ‘Top Gun’ or ‘An Officer and a Gentlemen’ scenario when the whole world swooned at Richard Gere carrying a woman in his arms while dressed head to toe in white with an officers’ cap on his head. We all want to be carried and swept off our feet - men and women. And if we are wearing some fabulous outfit while it happens then it doubles the effect.
A whole slew of Rock Stars have worn this look. Jimi Hendrix and the Beatles wore it in the most iconic way in the sixties. Of course the 60’s was a time of military surplus stores on every corner and the clothing was cheap. Great coats became so popular you could almost imagine London was heaving with soldiers off duty for the night and out on the town. It was only a matter of time before the fashion houses grabbed this street level idea and ran with it. The original garments were heavy and itchy - comfort was not on the front line for the service men and women that wore these into battle and for work. Today these shapes have been recreated in soft buttery leather, crisp fine wools, linens and languid heavy silks. They are light and easy to wear and have been shown by main stream designers all the way from the top right down to the hight street in stores like Next and Zara so it won’t break the bank to dip your toe in the water.
All parts of an officers’ day has been used from their time on a flight deck to the time in the Officers Mess where a dress uniform carries an amazing amount of bling. It is not just modern day battle dress that has been shown for this season and next but looks that have taken their inspiration from Braveheart and the American civil war. Have you ever known a season when a shearling flight jacket was not the most covetable and most expensive item on the Must Have list? This is a trend that transcends the seasons and we have it to look forward to when the cold of the winter is over and we rush to wear these military themes in the florals and stripes that have dominated the catwalk during fashion week.
Spring summer season seems eons away as we head into Autumn where we need fabrics that can be tailored into something more substantial than the boho maxi dresses we have been drifting around in all summer. Take the military look and shake it up with embroidery - flowers are IN in a big way. Gold buttons can transform an existing navy or white jacket and if you are nimble with a needle and thread and short on cash then you can add some braid round a collar or cuffs. Flared jeans in dark blue are a wise investment any year and I bet you already have a pair knocking around somewhere. Team them with the jacket and you are in the Navy for sure.
Gucci | 2016
Gucci in particular embraced the military look sending sailors down the cat walk in matelot sweaters with embroidery and flared trousers that fell way above the ankle for the men shown against a vivid emerald green back ground. This shade of green is another of the hot looks. Along with the perennial leopard print that we can never seem to shake off! There was a nod to the Officers’ Club with gold fringed epaulets shown on tailored floral suits in fabulous fabrics and again the embroidered bomber jacket for both men and women that you can pay whatever you like for this season. Personally, I already have mine and got it on the high street. I dream of the day when Gucci will be within my grasp but it’s not this year!
British fashion designers brought us some wonderful things with Burberry, Erdem, Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham showing the world that the UK is a force to be reckoned with. Mrs Beckham is even touting flat shoes on the runway! This from a woman who was famous for driving in 8” heels. You can still wear heels if you like but boots are back and are a must have. Ankle boots have never gone away. This autumn sees the return of the thigh high boot, which can look fantastic with a short skirt or a pair of leggings in one of the many fabrics on offer. My tip is to stick to fake leather leggings - real leather gets hot and does not spring back into shape and the fear of getting something on them goes away if you can fling them in the machine.
We already have the beginnings of next season trends mixed in with a gentle touch. Get ready for super long sleeves either form fitting or flaring out into bell shapes, micro florals in every conceivable form and uneven hemlines are all set to rule.
Fashion is for everyone and you should wear what makes you feel good with a tiny nod to current or future trends. Take the fashionistas test - if it makes your heart sing or you feel sick at the idea of not possessing a certain coat or bag then its got your name on it. Buy it, wear it, Love it.